Kimolos: one port, three tavernas and the best pie in the Cyclades

Plenty of small Greek islands have been discovered, then sold wholesale to the mass market. Kimolos is in little danger of it, and the reason is arithmetic rather than virtue. The only practical way to get there is by using neighbouring Pollonia on Milos as a stepping stone and even then, the ferry has space for only about 70 people, docking at the only port, Psathi. Quite simply, a sandy beach, three tavernas and a cafe are all there is to Psathi, the perfect place to chill out. It takes about 20 minutes to walk, or one can travel on the local mini-bus, up to the relatively large hilltop town of Chora. Here, local shops including an excellent bakery (ask for ‘pitta ladenia’ which is pie stuffed with sun-dried tomato, onion, dill and capers) can provide for all self-catering needs or one can eat in one of the local hostelries before visiting the beautiful cathedral of Theotokos Odigitria. Here, a 15th century icon salvaged from a shipwreck as well as many 17th century icons can be viewed in ornate surroundings. The medieval Venetian fort of which the ‘Kastro’ or inner fort still contains dwellings that bear coats of arms and carved lintels is not far from the cathedral as is the Folk History Museum.

The hamlet of Alyki takes about 40 minutes to walk from Chora and there are a number of deserted beaches dotted around the island which vary in quality from coarse sand to pebbles. Alyki is the closest but a little further west and the better beaches of Bonatsa and Kalamitsi are well worth the foot slog. Hikers will attempt to reach Palaiokastro which, at 370 meters, is the highest point of island!.

Things to do

It is possible to visit Milos for the day by using the local ferry that links Kimolos and Milos (crossing time 30 mins.).

Getting there

Travel between the mainland and Kimolos is by ferry (7 hrs.) or ferry to Milos (4 hrs) or air to Milos (45 mins.) and then ferry to Kimolos (30 mins.).