Donoussa, Cyclades
Donousa port.jpg · G-Lignum · CC BY-SA 4.0

Cyclades

Donoussa: sandy bays and walks in the eastern Cyclades

Tranquil and remote, this outpost of the Eastern Cyclades has all the prerequisites of sandy beaches, unspoilt Greek island community and marvellous walks to ensure a peaceful holiday.

Anyone who remembers the Greek islands of the late seventies and early eighties will recognise Donoussa. Central to that resemblance is the island’s remoteness and infrequent transport links. This has given the island an air of exclusivity with only those “in the know” making the not inconsiderable effort to visit the island. Point of arrival is the beautiful harbour village of Agios Stavros. The lovely sandy beach, the whitewashed village walls overrun with bougainvillaea, the picturesque tavernas and little shops all make Agios Stavros port special. Dinner in one of the tavernas by the beach or on the hillside overlooking the port is priceless, virtue of the sun setting in the most fantastic display of colour. Other focal points in the village include the blue-domed church of Timios Stavros and the “Kyma” café.

The rest of Donoussa is equally enthralling but just as extra effort is required to initially reach the island, so that additional endeavor will reward visitors who venture away from Stavros and explore other areas of the island. The two hamlets of Mersini and Kalotaritissa are the only other pockets of population on Donoussa. In peak season a convenient bus service links Stavros with these outposts but, if possible, the best way to appreciate their charms and the wonderful island scenery is to walk. Mersini’s lofty perch above the incredible Livadi beach will take about 50 minutes from Stavros. Time it right and lunch at “Tzi Tzi” taverna will taste extra special combined with sublime views over Donoussa’s south east coastline. From here, it is only 20 minutes or so down to the pristine beaches of Livadi and Fykio from where it is possible to take an excursion boat back to Stavros if the hike back to Mersini and Stavros is too daunting. The hike to Kalotaritissa will take about 75 minutes and is quite well marked. Spectacular scenery includes a ravine and virgin coastline. All but abandoned until a few years ago, Kalotaritissa is now a popular berth for yachts with two lovely beaches. Lunch at “Mitsos” behind Vliha beach can be recommended. Not everyone enjoys hiking, in which case the gorgeous, sandy Kedros beach will take just 20 minutes to walk west from Stavros.

Getting there

Travel between the mainland and Donoussa is by ferry (6 hrs. 45 mins.).

Getting to Donoussa
LegByRoughly
London → Athensflight—
Athens (Piraeus) → Donoussaferry6 hrs 45 min

Crossing times are the scheduled durations of the route, not a timetable. Sailings vary by season and operator.

Islands that pair with Donoussa

5 routes

Donoussa: the practical questions

How do you get to Donoussa?
By ferry from Piraeus, a crossing of about six hours forty-five minutes, or on the local boats that work the Minor Cyclades from Naxos. The infrequency is the whole reason the island still feels the way it does, and it is also the reason to check the sailing before fixing a return flight.

Is there transport on the island?
A bus links Agios Stavros with Mersini and Kalotaritissa in peak season, and that is the extent of it. Walking is the intended way around: Mersini is about fifty minutes from the port, Kalotaritissa about seventy-five on a well-marked path through a ravine.

Which beach should you walk to first?
Kedros, twenty minutes west of Agios Stavros, for sand without a hike. Livadi is the better one, reached by dropping twenty minutes below Mersini, and an excursion boat runs back to the port if the climb out has lost its appeal.

Is there anywhere to eat away from the port?
Yes, and it is part of the point. Tzi Tzi at Mersini looks out over the south-east coast, and Mitsos sits behind Vliha beach at Kalotaritissa, which since the yachts started calling is no longer the abandoned corner it was.

Which islands pair with Donoussa?
The rest of the Minor Cyclades and Naxos, which is the local hub: Iraklia, Koufonissia, Schinoussa, Amorgos and Naxos.

More of the Cyclades