Koufonissia: shallow water, sand and the largest fishing fleet

Situated to the southeast of its more illustrious neighbour Naxos, Koufonissia is two islands separated by a 200 metre straight. The upper, low, flat, populated island is one of the smallest islands in the Cyclades with an area of just 3.5 square kms. and a population of 284. In spite of its diminutive size, Koufonissia is becoming quite a trendy place to visit by virtue of its high quality beaches and cosy island atmosphere.

With the largest fleet in Greece in direct proportion to the population, fishing is the main, year round occupation on the island. Testimony to its growing popularity, Koufonissia does have many restaurants, tavernas and cafes together with some local art shops and a post office. The standard of cooking in the local tavernas is high, and fish is plentiful courtesy of the home fleet.

There is no possibility of car or bike hire as the only asphalted roads are in and around the village. Anyhow, the island is small enough to walk around in one morning. Beaches are the big plus on Koufonissia. There are 4 really superb stretches of sand within a thirty minute walk of the village.

Koufonissia can be combined with Amorgos, Athens, Donoussa, Folegandros, Iraklia, Milos, Mykonos, Naxos, Paros, Santorini, Schinoussa, Serifos & Sifnos.

The two islands are the whole geography. Upper Koufonissi holds the village, the fleet and the beaches; lower Koufonissi, 200 metres across the strait, holds a beach and a taverna and almost nothing else. The strait itself is shallow and clear enough that the crossing is the most photographed thing on the island.

Three islands, not one

Koufonissia is a plural, and the distinction matters when booking. Pano Koufonisi, the upper island, is the inhabited one and the one every boat calls at. Kato Koufonisi, across a channel two hundred metres wide, has a taverna, a church and beaches, and is reached by a caique that runs back and forth through the day. The third is Keros, uninhabited and closed: it is a protected archaeological site, and a great deal of the Cycladic marble figurine art in the world’s museums came out of it.

Administratively the group has belonged to the Municipality of Naxos and the Lesser Cyclades since the 2011 reform, which is also how the ferry timetable treats it. The name is unresolved. One reading takes it from Koufos Limin, the lee harbour, a place where a boat can shelter; the other from the hollows and sea caves in the low cliffs, which anyone who swims round the north coast will find first. Both readings describe something that is actually there, and the caves are the reason the north coast is worth the walk: the rock is undercut into pools and arches for much of its length, and the water in them is shallow, clear and warmer than the open sea.

Things to do

Excursion boats to various beaches including lower Koufonissia island where there is a sandy beach and high quality taverna.

On certain days of the week it is possible to make day trips to Iraklia, Naxos and Schinoussa using the local ferries.