Sifnos today is a quiet, hilly island in the western Cyclades. A combination of superb beaches, interesting inland villages, great walking possibilities, lovely churches and a bus service that is second to none on the smaller Greek Islands means any Grecophile worth his or her salt should seriously consider a holiday here. Four places make sense as a base: the main port of Kamares with its hustle and bustle, the beautiful beach area of Platy Gialos, the small, friendly, coastal village of Vathy, and finally, the charming hilltop town of Apollonia.
Short of arranging a private helicopter, Kamares is the only seaborn arrival and departure point on the island. As such, the fascinating comings and goings of ferries, pleasure craft and fishing vessels is one of the most enjoyable Greek dramas to view from the shaded waterfront cafes. The sandy, town beach, a wide selection of tavernas and good bus connections with other parts of the island make this village, which is surrounded by imposing, high hills, a lovely place to stay.
The traditional hilltop village of Apollonia is quieter than Kamares but is at the heart of Sifnian life. This mantle of cubed, Cycladic houses stretches across the terraced hills, criss-crossed by an intricate crochet of telephone poles and wires silhouetted against the deep blue sky. Some of the best tavernas on Sifnos and shops are to hand as are bus connections to the coastal regions with their magnificent beaches, most just 15 minutes away. Many of the best walks on the island emanate from Apollonia.
Situated at the southern tip of the island, Platy Gialos has one of the best beaches on the island as well as waterfront tavernas and local shops.
Finally, Vathy is the smallest and quietest of the four. One long sandy beach, a handful of tavernas and the usual smattering of village shops are the extent of tourism here.
Kastro, and the shape of the island
The four bases above are where people stay; Kastro is where the island’s history sits. It was the capital until 1836, built on top of a cliff on the east shore, and it still carries extensive medieval remains and the island’s archaeological museum. It is a bus ride or a walk from Apollonia and worth an afternoon on its own.
The two inland towns are named after a pair of temples. Apollonia takes its name from a temple of Apollo thought to have stood where the church of Panagia Yeraniofora is now; Artemonas, immediately north of it, from one of Apollo’s sister Artemis. Sifnos is 74 square kilometres, fifteen kilometres long and seven and a half wide, with seventy kilometres of coast and a permanent population of about 2,600 — the reason a bus service this good is possible on an island this size. Ferries run the Piraeus–Kythnos–Serifos–Sifnos–Milos–Kimolos line, which is also the cheapest way to combine it with a second island.
Things to do
Walkers will relish the opportunity to discover great swathes of the island on the 4 different guided walks. A lot of fun can be had taking Greek folk dancing lessons and attending Greek cookery classes. All of these are arranged locally and booked once you are on the island.
Getting there
Travel between the mainland and Sifnos is by ferry (2 hrs. 50 mins.).
| Leg | By | Roughly |
|---|---|---|
| London → Athens | flight | — |
| Athens (Piraeus) → Sifnos | ferry | 2 hrs 50 min |
Crossing times are the scheduled durations of the route, not a timetable. Sailings vary by season and operator.