Kassos, Dodecanese
A repose. Agios Nikolaos Beach and Kassos Island, Arkasa. Karpathos, Greece.jpg · Ввласенко · CC BY-SA 3.0

Dodecanese

Kassos: barren, unspoilt and the warmest welcome in the Dodecanese

Few if any islands offer a warmer welcome. Remote, barren and truly unspoilt, Kassos will satisfy the most demanding expectations of mass market escapism.

With a population of just 1,200 and covering a meagre 48 square miles, Kassos is one of the few Greek islands that can still truly combine a warm welcome and very little tourist development.

Of the 5 villages on the island, the largest and main port is Phry. This rather ramshackle collection of dwellings has little natural charm although the tiny harbour for caiques is a delight and part of the main waterfront has been redeveloped and given a new lease of life. The main attraction in Phry has to be the tavernas. An abundance of fresh fish is supplied by the island’s own small fishing fleet. Otherwise you will be welcomed with great friendliness by the local people, as tourists are a rarity.

A short walk across the bay and the tiny inlet of Emborio with its beach, tavernas and bobbing caiques comes into view. Walkers will revel in the gaunt remoteness of the surrounding countryside where olive groves, citrus fruit trees and small farms are interspersed between the villages of Panagia, Arvanitohori and Poli which are linked by rough roads.

Beach lovers will make the short boat journey to the neighbouring islet of Armathia which has a fine, sandy beach.

Kassos sits between Karpathos and Crete on a route few boats bother with, and the island’s history is out of proportion to its size: a merchant fleet in the nineteenth century, a massacre in 1824 that emptied it, and a long emigration afterwards that left more Kassiots abroad than at home. What remains is five villages, a good deal of empty stone country between them, and a population that notices a stranger.

Getting there

Travel between Rhodes and Kassos is by flight (1 hr. 10 mins.).

Getting to Kassos
LegByRoughly
Rhodes → Kassosflight1 hr 10 min

Crossing times are the scheduled durations of the route, not a timetable. Sailings vary by season and operator.

Islands that pair with Kassos

2 routes

Kassos: the practical questions

How do you get to Kassos?

By air from Rhodes, about an hour and ten minutes including the hop, which for an island of 1,200 people is a surprisingly civilised way in. Ferries also call, less often.

Is Phry worth staying in?

Phry is the main port and the largest of the island's five villages, and it is frankly ramshackle rather than pretty. The tiny caique harbour is a delight, part of the waterfront has been redeveloped, and the tavernas are the real attraction, supplied by the island's own small fishing fleet.

What is there to do?

Walk. The countryside between the villages of Panagia, Arvanitohori and Poli is gaunt and remote, with olive groves, citrus trees and small farms linked by rough roads. Emborio, a short walk across the bay from Phry, has a beach, tavernas and its own bobbing caiques.

Where do you swim?

The best swimming means a short boat trip to the neighbouring islet of Armathia, which has a fine sandy beach. On Kassos itself the coast is rockier than sandy.

How much tourism is there?

Very little, and visitors are rare enough that the welcome is genuinely warm rather than professional. That is the whole proposition of the island, and anyone wanting facilities should go elsewhere.

More of the Dodecanese