Astypalea, Dodecanese
Military ship in Astypalea seen from Greek orthodox church in Astypalea Greece Aegean sea.jpg · Magnus.chronicles · CC BY 4.0

Dodecanese

Astypalea: the butterfly island, remote but reachable by air

Butterfly-shaped, remote and yet accessible by air, Astypalea is the perfect spot to unwind and soak up that quintessential Greek island atmosphere.

Butterfly-shaped Astypalea can be excused its identity crisis. Officially belonging to the Dodecanese, this most westerly island of the archipelago would feel more at home geographically in the Cyclades.

The main port area of Skala certainly has a Cycladic feel, with typical whitewashed, cubic houses clinging to the hillside below the Venetian castle that dominates the skyline of hilltop Chora. As a spot to quietly unwind and soak up some Greek island atmosphere, free from crowds, Astypalea is perfect. Skala and Chora are linked by a steep flight of steps, a less arduous meander along the narrow road or a very short bus ride. On turning the final bend into Chora, a splendid, small main square flanked by a line of windmills greets the eye.

The infrequent ferry and domestic air connections from the mainland to Astypalea makes little impression on tourist numbers and has spared the island from falling prey to any dramatic tourist development. The simple pleasures of tavernas and cafes in both Skala and Chora are the limit to evening entertainment, preceded by the ever popular ‘volta’ when the locals have their pre-dinner stroll along the attractive harbour front. Try the local dish of astakomakaronadha made with honey, fish and lobster. Quite delicious.

Daytime activity is limited to beach and walking. A 20 minute walk from Skala and the shingle beach of Livadia, one of the best on the island complete with tavernas and shaded by tamarisk trees, beckons. The same bus that links Skala and Chora continues to Livadia. A number of other beaches both to the south (Vatses and Kaminakia) and north (Analipsi) are accessible by excursion boat from Skala.

Getting there

Travel between the mainland and Astypalea is either by air (55 mins.) or ferry (9 hrs. 5 mins.).

Getting to Astypalea
LegByRoughly
London → Athensflight—
Athens → Astypaleaflight55 min
Athens (Piraeus) → Astypaleaferry9 hrs 5 min

Crossing times are the scheduled durations of the route, not a timetable. Sailings vary by season and operator.

Islands that pair with Astypalea

4 routes

Astypalea: the practical questions

How do you get to Astypalea?
By air from Athens in about fifty-five minutes, or by ferry from Piraeus in a little over nine hours. The air connection is domestic and infrequent, which is precisely why the island has escaped development.

Is it Dodecanese or Cyclades?
Officially the Dodecanese, and the most westerly island of that archipelago, but geographically and visually it would sit more comfortably in the Cyclades. Skala's whitewashed cubic houses below the Venetian castle make the point.

Skala or Chora?
They function as one place. Skala is the port, Chora the hilltop town above it with the castle and a small main square flanked by a line of windmills. The two are linked by a steep flight of steps, a gentler walk along the road, or a very short bus ride.

Where do you swim?
Livadia, twenty minutes' walk from Skala, is one of the best on the island: shingle, tamarisk shade and tavernas, and reached by the same bus that serves Chora. Vatses and Kaminakia to the south and Analipsi to the north are reached by excursion boat from Skala.

What should you eat?
Astakomakaronadha, the local dish of pasta with lobster and fish in a honeyed sauce. Evenings otherwise mean tavernas and cafes in Skala or Chora, preceded by the volta, the pre-dinner stroll along the harbour front.

More of the Dodecanese